Stovepipe Socks
designed by Nancy Bush

This pattern includes techniques for knitting socks adapted for my book, Knitting Vintage Socks (Interweave Press, 2005). The original pattern is one I use in my workshop, also called ‘Knitting Vintage Socks’. I have changed this pattern slightly from the course pattern for ease of knitting, with a more universal cast on and mirrored decreases in the heel turn, instead of the original ‘un-mirrored’ decreases which were used in the original 19th Century instructions for a Welsh Heel.

Materials - 1 skein Araucania, 376 yards (344 m) in 100 g., and set of US #1 (2.5mm) or US #2 (2.75mm) double point needles or size to give gauge.
Gauge - 16 sts and 20 rnds = 2" (5cm) in St st before blocking.
Size - To fit a ladies medium foot.

CO 68 sts with a Long Tail cast on. Set sts up on 3 needles so you have 24, 20, 24. Join, using a Cross Over Join. Work 8 rnds k1, p1 ribbing.

Begin Leg Pattern
Rnds 1 - 4: *K3, p1, repeat from * to end.
Begin leg shaping with mirrored decreases:
Rnd 5: (dec rnd) - K1, ssk, p1, *k3, p1 repeat from * to last 4 sts, end k2 tog, k1, p1 -- 2 sts dec’d.
Rnd 6: P 1 rnd.
Rnd 7: K2, p1, *k3, p1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Rnd 8: P 1 rnd.
Rnds 9 to 12: as rnd 7.
Rnd 13: (dec rnd) - K1, ssk, *k3, p1, repeat from * to 7 sts from end, k3, k2 tog, k1, p1 – 2 sts dec’d.
Rnd 14: P 1 rnd.
Rnd 15: K5,* p1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2. p1.
Rnd 16: P 1 rnd.
Rnd 17 to 20: as rnd 15.
Rnd 21: (dec rnd) - K1, ssk, k2, *p1, k3, repeat from * to last 7 sts, p1, k2, k2 tog, k1, p1 – 2 sts dec’d.
Rnd 22: P 1 rnd.
Rnd 23: K4,* p1, k3, repeat from * to 6 sts from end, p1, k4, p1.
Rnd 24: P 1 rnd.
Rnd 25 to 28: as rnd 23.
Rnd 29: (dec rnd) - K1, ssk, k1, * p1, k3, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p1, k2 tog, k1, p1 – 2 sts dec’d.

Continue on these 60 sts in pattern as established until leg measures 8" (20 cm) or desired length.

Begin Heel
Set up for working heel flap with seam stitch as follows:
K15, turn, sl 1, p14, k1 (seam st), p15--31 sts on heel needle. Place remaining 29 sts on 2 needles to be worked later for instep (first and last sts of instep should be purl sts). Work 31 heel sts back and forth in rows as follows:
Row 1:(RS) Sl 1, k14, p1 (seam st), k15.
Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p14, k1, p15.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 fifteen times total--30 heel flap rows, ending with a WS row--15 chain sts (slipped selvedge sts) along each edge of heel flap.

Turn Heel
Work Welsh Heel in short rows as follows (the yarn overs will form small holes at each turn):
Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, k4, yo, k2 tog, k5, k2 tog, k1, p1 (seam st), k1, ssk, k5, ssk, turn.
Row 2: (WS) Yo, purl to seam st, k1 (seam st), purl to 10 sts beyond seam st (purling yo of previous row, and counting it as 1 purl st), turn.
Row 3: (RS) Yo, k2 tog, k5, k2 tog, k1, p1 (seam st), k1, ssk, k5, ssk (yo of previous row and next st), turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four more times; decreases on either side of seam st will be mirror images of each other – 18 sts (including yarn overs).
Row 4: (WS) Sl 1, purl to seam st, k1 (seam st), purl to last 2 sts, p2 tog – 17 sts total ( 8 + 1 (seam st) + 8).

Gussets
Rejoin for working in the rnd, by creating gussets as follows:
Rnd 1: With RS facing and needle 1, knit across 17 heel sts (including the seam st), pick up and knit 15 sts along right side of heel flap; with needle 2, work across 29 instep sts in established rib pattern; with needle 3, pick up and knit 15 sts along left side of heel flap, then knit the first 9 sts from needle 1 again – 76 sts total; 23 sts on needle 1, 29 instep sts on needle 2, 24 sts on needle 3. Rnd begins at center of heel.
Rnd 2: On needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1; on needle 2, work sts in pattern as established; on needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end--74 sts.
Rnd 3: Work even as established.
Rnd 4: On needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1; on needle 2, work even in pattern as established; on needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end – 72 sts.
Repeat rnds 3 and 4 until there are 60 sts remaining: 15 sts on needle 1, 29 sts on needle 2, and 16 sts on needle 3.

Continue in pattern until foot measures 21/2" (6.5cm) less than desired finished length. Work 5 rnds st st,

Toe
Divide stitches equally among 3 needles, 20 sts on each needle, so that the center stitch of the bottom of the foot is the first stitch on needle 1.
Shape French Toe as follows:
Rnd 1: On needle 1, *k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts on needle, k2 tog, k1; rep from * for needles 2
and 3 – 6 stitches dec’d.
Rnd 2: Work even in St st.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 until 12 sts remain.
On next rnd: *k1, k2 tog, k1; repeat from * on each needle – 9 sts remain.

Break yarn, and with a tapestry needle, draw yarn through the remaining sts and pull up snug to close end of toe. Weave in ends and block on sock blockers or under a damp towel.